Kansas Crimson

jfish26 wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:14 pm I have a few bar-height swivel chairs that I put together several years ago now. The sort that came in boxes and we had to put the legs and stuff on, using pre-drilled holes etc.

They're now falling apart, the screws not holding.

What exactly are my options here? Reassemble them with slightly larger screws? And/or wood glue? Brackets or other new joining hardware? Break up with her?

If you're looking to plug some holes, get some wooden matchsticks, dip them in wood glue, shove them into the hole to be plugged, snap them off and then add more wood/glue mix to fill. Let them dry for a few days and then try the screws again.

twocoach wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:47 pm

jfish26 wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:14 pm I have a few bar-height swivel chairs that I put together several years ago now. The sort that came in boxes and we had to put the legs and stuff on, using pre-drilled holes etc.

They're now falling apart, the screws not holding.

What exactly are my options here? Reassemble them with slightly larger screws? And/or wood glue? Brackets or other new joining hardware? Break up with her?

If you're looking to plug some holes, get some wooden matchsticks, dip them in wood glue, shove them into the hole to be plugged, snap them off and then add more wood/glue mix to fill. Let them dry for a few days and then try the screws again.

What I'd really like to do is try some sort of ad hoc fix like a glue or putty. These don't get much use. Would really like something that could just possibly hold up for the summer?

Are you sure you know what a screw is? Typically the bring it home and assemble it stuff is bolts with washers. Those things come loose. You can just plan on tightening things up every 6 months or so as preventative maintenance, try some loctite, or get a locking washer. I'd just tighten them up regularly.

DrPepper wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:57 pm Are you sure you know what a screw is?

ho-lee shit

if this is the case, i’ve been giving Fish waaaaay too much credit

DrPepper wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:57 pm Are you sure you know what a screw is? Typically the bring it home and assemble it stuff is bolts with washers. Those things come loose. You can just plan on tightening things up every 6 months or so as preventative maintenance, try some loctite, or get a locking washer. I'd just tighten them up regularly.

I am in fact confident that the little metal thingie that has spiral ridges is in fact a screw! And there were pre-drilled (or whatever) guide holes for the screws. So that's why I'm asking about using slightly larger screws (the idea being to use, but slightly expand, the same guide holes.

jfish26 wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:53 pm

twocoach wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:47 pm

jfish26 wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:14 pm I have a few bar-height swivel chairs that I put together several years ago now. The sort that came in boxes and we had to put the legs and stuff on, using pre-drilled holes etc.

They're now falling apart, the screws not holding.

What exactly are my options here? Reassemble them with slightly larger screws? And/or wood glue? Brackets or other new joining hardware? Break up with her?

If you're looking to plug some holes, get some wooden matchsticks, dip them in wood glue, shove them into the hole to be plugged, snap them off and then add more wood/glue mix to fill. Let them dry for a few days and then try the screws again.

What I'd really like to do is try some sort of ad hoc fix like a glue or putty. These don't get much use. Would really like something that could just possibly hold up for the summer?

My keyboard shelf on my desk at home was plugged using this method and the screws have held for several years now. Just gotta jam enough material in there for the screw to grip against. One change --> change the last step as I got that wrong. Don't wait for the glue to dry before you re-add the screws. RE-add the screws right away or the glue will be hard and you'll struggle to get the screws back in.

The worst thing that happens is that you're right where you left off and the screws still don't hold.

KUTradition wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:59 pm

DrPepper wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:57 pm Are you sure you know what a screw is?

ho-lee shit

if this is the case, i’ve been giving Fish waaaaay too much credit

I might not be handy, but I do know the difference between a screw and a bolt.

KUTradition wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:59 pm

DrPepper wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:57 pm Are you sure you know what a screw is?

ho-lee shit

if this is the case, i’ve been giving Fish waaaaay too much credit

Hey, he admitted he didn't know much in this department. I had bar-height swivel chairs and the bolts kept falling out.

A screw job and then bolting. See Hawley, Josh.

I do endorse Twocoach here. Did the same thing on my door cylinder mechanism

DrPepper wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 3:08 pm

KUTradition wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:59 pm

DrPepper wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 2:57 pm Are you sure you know what a screw is?

ho-lee shit

if this is the case, i’ve been giving Fish waaaaay too much credit

Hey, he admitted he didn't know much in this department. I had bar-height swivel chairs and the bolts kept falling out.

Not mad at all! Reasonable question.

Sparko wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 3:09 pm A screw job and then bolting. See Hawley, Josh.

I do endorse Twocoach here. Did the same thing on my door cylinder mechanism

^^^ Me too. I've used the wooden matchstick trick to gain purchase in a stripped-out screw hole many times, and it often works. And depending on the situation, if there's not going to be a lot of stress on the screw, I skip the glue part. But for a chair, you're more likely to need it.

toothpicks work, too.

2coach is correct. matchsticks, toothpicks, pencils, cut shims....they all work.


but...I dunno, In the case of pressboard/particle board......its....usually just trash time.

Thanks, all.

jfish26 wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2023 9:52 pmThanks, all.

better yet.....

trash the tops.

get a couple chunks of butcher block counter top (or buy the whole countertop you can get 4 feet for like $85....I just seem to always have cutoffs lying around). Cut out the shape you want, router the edges to round them off. Sand everything (100, 180, 220, 320) stain and seal (400 grit between finish coats.....wipe the stain and clear coat on...dont brush....)

use the predilled holes in the original stool supports and....voila. way better end product for your stools.

Seats are in good shape. It’s the legs apparatus that’s falling apart.

even more reason to trash the whole set up then...

About how much would it cost to extend ( cut out ) a 32 inch tall, 20 inch wide window oh, about 12 inches in width?

A. We want a better view/more light in the upstairs window.
B. I'm not sure if any AC units would fit correctly in the 20 inch opening. Everything I'm seeing is saying a minimum of 21 to 23 inches.

Whomever built this house really whiffed on one side of this room which just has that tiny window for the best directional view our house has - 20 feet of wall, not even two feet of it window.

In other news:
I think the new flashing treatment has solved the leak. We had torrential sideways downpours and all good. So BUD found a new guy to come in and do the drywall/patching/painting. Used same paint for ceiling but because the ceiling hasn't been repainted since before we bought it and I think b/c we have a wood stove, the color of the new paint is a touch lighter. I don't notice it at all. BUD does.

Mrs Fish and I will never, ever agree where the line is between blue and gray.

very quick, ballpark number assuming no electrical in the way, no rot in the walls etc....

2-2.5k. (I assumed $3-500 for the window...costs vary tremendously depending on what you want....standard, white vinyl window will be cheapest....if you want color other than white, or if you want wood trimmed window....the manufacturers charge a lot more for those).

remove trim, inside and outside
remove existing window
cut new opening
re-frame new opening
window wrap
install new window
trim inside and out
caulk, patch and paint outside
caulk, patch, paint inside.

2 guys 1 day....or...1 good guy in 1 day...but being an elevated window sure does help to have a second set of hands.

a partial second day for paint, touch up etc.

1. Go with a standard size window. its anywhere between 10-25 weeks to get custom sized windows currently. 32" is an odd window size.

2. Go as big as you want right now. other than the cost of the window itself....the rest of the cost is essentially the same if you go 12" wider or 30" wider etc. (obviously excluding if electrical has to be moved etc).